To Pivot Line, or not…

To pivot line, or not to pivot line … that is the question:

Whether ‘tis nobler in the mind to suffer
The speed and angles of outrageous jammers,
Or take direct hits against a sea of blocks
And by opposing [hopefully] stop them.

Soliloquy aside, it seems like every time blockers step on the floor between jams now, they ask themselves “No seriously, where should we go?” 

The answer is inconsistent and often comes with groans from one or more players on the track. How did we get here, and what does this all mean for the newer derby player? 

Come children, gather around the Snapchat, and let me spin you a tale of a different time.

Let’s remember that our sport is still under 30 years old, and most leagues that exist aren’t old enough to legally imbibe in the US. The sport has undergone rapid change and development in that time, more so than other sports since we have the global sharing of knowledge known as the internet. At the beginning, tactics spread slowly and took time for adaptation. Now teams of 20 in New Mexico can see what is happening from top coaches in Europe at any time.

The sport was originally very fast, and focused on space and forward momentum. There were two starts to a jam: one whistle to release the blockers, a second set of two whistles (like lead jam) to release the jammers. Jammers would only be released after the last blocker passed the pivot line (or one other scenario but let’s pause on that). Blockers were fast, so jammers had to be faster.

Speed was always a challenge. Thank you to my teammates for getting me out of that one & getting me lead at ECDX 2011. Photo by Jim Rhoades.

Lining up at the pivot line was advantageous in those days because the quicker you released the jammer, the quicker you could earn lead and score points. Pivots would fight for their toe on the pivot line because blockers have to establish behind the hips of a pivot in that position (still do). A pivot in a superior position from the start could run away faster, and control the speed of the pack. Derby generally moved at a racing pace as a result. Blockers had to be fast, jammers had to be ungodly fast.

This was not just because of the rules, but because honestly, most of us were not very good at skating or control back then. With little experience, you could still be successful while skating fast in a straight line. It’s way easier than the cuts, edgework, and mobility that we see today from all positions.

And star passes? I think I saw 4 total between 2009 and 2012 (and I watched a LOT of derby y’all).

Then in 2010 there was a thing introduced that changed everything: the Knee Down Start (KDS). I saw it the first time when Gotham Roller Derby did it at ECDX (I believe against Philly). High level teams figured out that the jammers would also be released if there was a no pack called, and they challenged the idea that you had to start so far away from their jammers. 

2012 Pennsylvillains vs Dutchland Roller Derby. We think the photo is by Jim Rhoades (If you know otherwise, please comment!)

If the pack is closer to the jam line, and the jammers are released right away, you have more opportunity to gain lead. ESPECIALLY if the other team is not used to the strategy and spends the whole time going “What is happening?” And further if you utilize good roller skating to keep the game slow, so that your ungodly fast jammers can just do laps instead of having to catch up to a pack.

EVOLUTION BABY

KDS became so popular that WFTDA quickly removed the two whistle starts, thus removing the need to start on the ground. There are so many more strats and reasons and background but let’s just say that KDS were a brief, but vital, moment in time for the sport.

Great, so now we all start on the jam line. Now we jockey for who can be closest to the jammer to contain them at the start. So for a minute there we all fought for the BACK line. Not every jammer (It’s me, hi, I’m the problem, it’s me) loves having to avoid their team before encountering the opposition.

So now we have people starting on the pivot line in order to force the other team to be on the back line, because ALWAYS blockers would roll back to the back line on 5 seconds. Why? It’s what we did, it’s what we were comfy with, it’s what we were told we should do, and we also were told, “Well if you roll back than the other team has to adjust to you.”

Jam line start between Concussion Roller Derby and Roller Derby Toulouse at the 2025 MRDA Championships. Photo by Life Thru Argo’s Lens.

Now we’re back. History class is over, and it’s time to head into Game Psychology.

When lining up as blockers you have an array of decisions to make for your initial placement. My favorite way to have people line up on game day is HOW YOU PRACTICE LINING UP. Don’t get weird until either 1) You’re way up or 2) You’re way down. 

Photo by Wik’s Pix

Advantages of starting at the Pivot Line:

  1. You have the ability to run away from jammers & other blockers. This is especially helpful if you are defending a power start where your jammer is standing.
  2. You are close to the turn, which is helpful when ON a power start and you want your jammer to have more space to move.
  3. Occasionally you can catch someone on a false start or Failure to Yield by doing the Pivot-touching-the-line trick if they are unaware of their hips & the rules.
  4. It can freak out a jammer that’s not used to having space to run.
  5. If you have a fast & powerful jammer it gives them a head of speed.

Disadvantages of starting at the Pivot Line:

  1. Very close to the corner when you start. In order for a run tactic to work when defending on the power start, you have to be able to guarantee that all of your blockers will be faster and more evasive than the opposition. If someone gets picked off, the opponents now control the pack in the turn, where your team is split up.
  2. If you’re on a power start and you start at the line, but the other team does not move forward with you, you risk a Destruction Penalty AND your jammer will have a regular wall to contend with.
  3. If your team doesn’t know the Pivot-touching-the-line trick, you may lose someone to the box.
  4. It can freak out your jammer if they’re not used to seeing this arrangement.
  5. If the other jammer is a powerful or super agile, you may not be able to stop them as easily when they get that full head of steam.

What else can happen when you’re starting on the pivot line?

  1. The other team can say “Nuts to this” and draw back to the back line.
  2. The other team can say “Nah” and go HALFWAY back.
  3. The other team can say “Raise you” and establish on the pivot line, forcing your blockers behind them.
  4. The other team can position themselves to box in your blockers after the first whistle, abandoning the classic line formation.

Some of the fun of derby is getting to deal with these various scenarios as a collective group of individuals. It’s why a Pod System works well for many teams – if you can get like minded blockers working together consistently, when things get weird (and they will), everyone has a similar mindset of how to contend with it.

Photo by Life Thru Argo’s Lens

So what are some options when the other team changes it up?

If they draw all the way to the back line, you can stay or you can follow. Easy enough. 

If you follow, YOU MUST COMMIT TO IT. You don’t want to be caught halfway, or still moving backwards when the start whistle blows. Chase back, set, smush, derbz. If you don’t follow, make sure your whole team is on board and at that Pivot Line; no one halfway. Let the opposing team be on the Jam Line, you stay on the Pivot Line.

The whole pack AND your jammer must be mindful of the No Pack scenario that is about to occur because of the pack being split at the start of the jam. During a No Pack, no one can meaningfully engage in a block AND the back pack must make an effort to reform. The temptation is for your pack to jump backwards when they hear the No Pack Call, however you need to give it a beat.

Your jammer can take this opportunity to come through the pack as long as they don’t hit anyone significantly off balance while doing so in the No Pack situation. Since the blockers are also not allowed to engage impactfully they can’t blast your jammer either.

Photo by WiK’s Pix

Can they be moving forward to reform and still position in front of your jammer? Yes, as long as they are doing so while reforming. A No Pack is not a guarantee that your jammer goes unhindered, but often the blockers will be too busy putting their hands in the air to make an effort to disrupt your initial pass.

Doesn’t that mean we, at the top, ALSO can’t meaningfully engage during a No Pack? Yes. Do we HAVE to make an effort to reform? No, we simply cannot skate forward.

By the time the opposing jammer reaches the pivot line, there should be a pack from the back players scooting up. However, if they do not, a Failure to Reform will be called. Make sure one of your blockers is assigned to keep an eye on this so they can drop back to reform the pack before the jammers hit so the other blockers can engage.

SPEED CHESS! Isn’t it fun? Y’all keeping up?

What if the other team decides to start halfway between the Jam Line and Pivot Line? That’s kinda weird honestly. They either are very unsure of what they’re doing or 

To find out if it’s a trap, drift backwards a bit. If they respond, it’s probably a trap. 

I’m a big fan of keeping my pack at the Pivot Line regardless, and waiting for the jam starting whistle. The moment it happens, have a solo drop for an offensive clear on the line, while your other three blockers come backwards in a tripod formation to catch the opposing jammer as they clear their own blockers.

Another fun option is, after the whistle, have the whole pack drop back and surround the tripod in an Old School Funnel Cake. Like this:

This is a quick offense for your jammer, while giving your blockers the opportunity to use the opposing team against their own jammer.

If they fight you for the Pivot Line, if you fight back, then we’ve got some Off to the Races 2010 Style Run derby that is not great for the longevity of your jammers. Effective for a box clear, not effective for long-term successful derby.

The other option is to drop back into a regular formation further back. If you go halfway to the Jam Line, congrats! You’re setting a trap! If the other team follows you and sets up a press at five seconds before the jam start whistle, then you drop back to the Jam Line at three seconds.

Finally [at least in this piece] there is the option of the other team boxing you in. With Four Corners, the goal is to take the Four Corners of the opposing team and at the right time, smush.

Photo by WiK’s Pix

If you do nothing with your positioning, some of you will get smushed, even if you try and jump at the Jam Start whistle. The front to opponents are positioned in a way to pick off two of your people. So once more, you are faced with the choice: Drop backwards or run forwards?

If your team is not well practiced at quick start & stops, running forwards will likely put you in the bad position of being slightly split up in the corner of the track; which is a jammer’s feeding ground.

If you drop backwards, do so at the last moment to prevent the other team from just resetting into Four Corners but with MORE space.

So To Pivot Line or Not to Pivot Line? It still remains the question. Getting “The Front” is not always about establishing yourself at the Pivot Line itself, but about being in front of the other team at the jam start, and using the Pivot Line is a handy way to do that.

As a team, or more specifically, as a Pod, you need to decide if you’re going to just take the back line regardless, or if you want to try and establish yourself up front. This is not just about your strengths, but also your jammer, if there’s anyone on either side in the box, game timing, and how well y’all are vibing in that moment.

Hopefully this quick glimpse into one part of the Psychology of Blocking has resonated with you in some way. Drop notes, thoughts, insights, or what I missed down below. Do you like this sort of blog? Should I do more?

Follow me on Instagram too for instruction videos when I have the spoons!

Review: RD Elite Travel Bag

So I just got back from a magical 5 week romp around part of the world. Along the way I acquired some new stuff, and I also got to really put some other stuff to the test. I decided to review them all in separate blogs now that I’ve gotten back. In this issue: Roller Derby Elite’s new skate bag.

THANK THE DERBY GODS FOR THIS BAG.

Seriously, Tony Muse is awesome at designing skates, but I believe his true talent lies in designing luggage.

Ok, so I am tentative to post this review first because I don’t want the world going, “Of course she loves it, they’re her sponsor.” It’s not why I love this bag. I will tell you why I will not need or desire another gear bag ever. This is a two-part bag (as are many), where your backpack and rolling bag zip together. But this is OH so much more.

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Yes, it’s waterproof (I knew I’d be in Manchester, waterproof is necessary). Yes, it still is easy to sew on patches! Super handy when I was at MRDA champs and everyone had one. I could easily discern mine!

Spaciousness

I tested the backpack previously for space. It was able to hold: Size 6 skates, 187 pro knee pads, 187 elbow pads, Atom Wrist guards, my ACL DonJoy brace, full water bottle, mouth guard, 8 wheels, 8 helmet hats, 2 scrimmage shirts, shaker cup, extra shake container, and the little extra things I carry like re-wetting drops and chap stick. I clipped the helmet on the outside of the bag, and rode my bike 16 miles. The backpack clips across your chest, and the clip slides up and down, so you can adjust it to sit wherever is most comfortable on YOU. Note: while abroad, I added in ArmourFlex shin guards, and Steaks padded shorts/tank and it still fit comfortably.

The bag holds up to size 12 skates comfortably, though I personally prefer using my Skate Noose when utilizing my backpack as my gear bag, so I can put my helmet INSIDE the bag and not scuff it up. The helmet does swing a bit when attached to the outside, but that’s physics for you. If you clip your helmet through the loop with the shorter side through first, and the longer side coming over top, you can pull the longer piece through and the helmet will sit more flush to the bag.

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ALL THE STUFF

The backpack has a separation in the largest compartment so you can put a laptop in safely. It has several separations in the smaller pocket, including a zippered pocket that was great for keeping my passport and cash in. All the separate parts are waterproof too, and overall the bag seemed really resistant to stank (throughout the trip I flip flopped between the backpack as gear storage and a regular clothes storage).

The rolling bag will hold any size skate comfortably plus gear, plus multiple braces, plus helmet. The rolling bag also has a handy wheel section on it so you don’t have to throw your wheels and bearings all willy-nilly into your gear bag. Or if you don’t want to keep wheels in it, store your extras. Honestly, it was my eye drops/tools/cash/tampon/whistle pocket while I was away.

Both bags individually fit as carry-on baggage on airplanes, though if you’re in Europe, do not overstuff the backpack. I got guff from a British Airline security lady because she thought I “brought way too much” in my backpack. I showed her that my backpack squished down really nicely into the bin sizing thingy and she reluctantly agreed. She was not happy about my skate noose, but everyone else in security oo’d and aah’d over my pretty new skates.

Durability

I gotta be honest, I wasn’t sure how this bag was going to hold up. Not every part of the world I was going to was involving smooth surfaces. Den Haag and Lincolnshire were particularly cobblestoney, and Manchester was just a perpetual puddle. I decided that since I had the option of a checked bag, I was going to take advantage:

Enter the beautiful option to zip the bag together!

Now, with other bags, I have seen a lot of strain on the zipper when stuff is in the backpack and attached to the rolling bag. I was worried about that with this one, since it is very obviously front heavy when the backpack is attached. That said, because of how close the zipper is to the ground, and how the backpack is designed, there is actually not much pressure on the zipper at all. When you rest, the backpack takes the brunt of the weight of the bag, instead of the zipper being a force to keep the backpack in the air. The bottom of the backpack could use a little rubber coating, just to guarantee it won’t scuff or rip, but the bottom is really durable already. I have no tears, no wear and tear from it resting in the airport or on buses.

roller derby elite
The full bag

The zipped and stuffed bag didn’t just survive cargo holds on four different airplanes, it looks damn near close to new regardless. There was a little strain on the zipper in the lower right hand corner of the backpack attachment when everything was stuffed in there, but I found that once I unloaded and reattached, the zipper was back to normal.

Convenience

Aside from the convenience of all the big storage, there’s a ton of little pockets everywhere on the backpack. The outside flap has a ‘tools’ slot, which was another prime place for easy access to credit card and identification while I was traveling. The front of the bag has two pockets, and the smaller one has headphone access. Admittedly, I never used it for that. The pocket itself is too small for my iPhone 5, but could be the right size for MP3 sticks, or other cells. I used it for chap stick, my portable battery, and to hold my headphones and USB cable. The second front pocket was large enough for my mouth guard case, finger whistle, and some random odds and ends.

There’s also a mesh water bottle holder on the side of the backpack that saved my life. My 32oz Nalgene fit PERFECTLY in it. I was worried about it stretching and tearing when the water bottle was in it, but the mesh is in good condition. The top of my water bottle had its attachment tear off (so the lid no longer attaches), and there’s a couple sharp bits of plastic that did a little bit of damage to the mesh, but I consider that a special scenario. It never caught on things while stretched taut.

The smaller, front pocket has an added bonus: the sides unzip so you can reach into the depths (which does have a tendency to eat small items) more easily! Often I would put my my eye drops or headbands into the deep pocket, and then when I needed to fish something out, I’d take down one of the side zippers for better access. SO NICE.

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The wheel bag, when filled, provided a small shelf on the rolling bag, so I could wear my backpack, roll my bag, and keep another large handle bag (one of those enormous RollerCon bags from a couple years ago) on top of the rolling bag. It ended up looking cumbersome, but being quite easy to manage. Couple that with the fact that the bottom of the bag has a  little handle that helps with balancing it when standing, but also with hoisting the thing (particularly when the backpack is attached), and you’ve got a great multipurpose travel bag.

The rolling bag also has a front that unzips to reveal two layers of mesh. You can unzip the front completely to vent your gear (or partially as I did sometimes while traveling). You can also keep things in between the two layers of mesh! I find it a good spot for helmet hats, spare Herbalife Liftoff and Hydrate packets, or bandanas. The mesh keeps it all just a little bit separated to give everything air to breathe. Again, the bag has been really resilient to maintaining stink.

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The second layer of mesh unzips for easy access to your gear if you need to grab something without messing up your packing genius.

In conclusion, while there are little things that I would like to improve (like a more convenient spot for a cell phone/headphone combo), I am in love with this bag. The comfort level is high up as well. The outside is durable, but woven in a way that it’s comfortable. I am a huge fan of backpacks that include a strap across the front to help distribute weight. Not only does this bag have one, but the height is adjustable! I didn’t discover that until halfway through my trip, but once I did my world changed! I didn’t have to adjust the tightness of the arm straps in order to shift where the clip sat (which, as a woman, can sometimes be placed in awkward and uncomfortable spots).

The bag retails for around $100 USD. You can find the bags from Wicked Skatewear, Bruised Boutique, and Sckr Punch (they’re not on the website, but call them up they have them). Buy from derby-owned shops!! Support our community!! Make sure you like Roller Derby Elite Series on Facebook, and follow Elite on Twitter @RDEliteSkates.

roller derby elite bag skates
Starting my adventure, waiting for my plane out of Dallas. What an adventure, and I’m super glad I had my Elite bag in time for the trip!

Khaos Theory Blog is run completely off my own funds. Make a donation now to keep the blog going! 
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Kristie Grey (Merry Khaos) has been playing roller derby since 2009 and has coached almost as long. She has worked with over 20 leagues in 11 states, and five countries. She has coached on and off skates at Beat Me Halfway 2014 & RollerCon (2012-2015). She currently skates with Tampa Roller Derby. Active in health and wellness, she is an active Herbalife Health Coach, rock climber, and power lifter. For questions, booking, requests of topic, or help with a nutrition plan, message Khaos at DerbyAmerica@gmail.com

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